Done and the shutter speed dial of the M9 clicks in delicious half-stops!Įven if you're in Auto ISO, Auto ISO won't darken an image, but it will lighten them. Want to lock in a manual exposure based on another shot you just made in Auto? Easy! Look at the shutter speed shown top-center on playback, and set it on the top dial. Simply reads the version of firmware mine was at 1.138 as I write this in August 2010. Don't bother with Overwrite Data, which takes forever re-writing the entire card. This doesn't really matter, I have yet to find a USB cord which fits my M9 anyway.ĭo this every time you insert a card to wipe it clean and start fresh. The default of PTP only works with dedicated software. Mass storage, which lets the M9 pop up as a drive when connected to a computer. Slick is that as you spin the knob towards selecting each language, everything on-screen changes instantly to that language! I often leave mine in German, which gives the highest image quality. Volume: Off, which thankfully is the default for all the options. Sequence is how you would like the date displayed. Time Format is how you would like the time displayed.Īs of Firmware 1.138, it's still wrong in 12 Ur. No this would set all this back to defaults. Otherwise, try 1/30 for most use, and 1/8 to let backgrounds fill in, with some risk of blurry ghosts. The default of Standard is useless, except when shooting B/W JPGs. In my preferred setting, I can change compensation by turning the rear ring at the same time as holding the shutter partway down. I never can get a good picture out of the M9 as JPG, so I only shoot DNG, under which these cannot be adjusted. (Default of 1/60 isn't optimum for shorter or longer lenses.) I save four profiles, one each for each manually-coded lens, and name the profile for that lens. With some of the very newest lenses, of course I have to use Auto and let it read the lens itself. I set this because most of my lenses haven't been cut-up with those silly black and white dots on their mounts. See LEICA M9 Color Rendition for the full story, as well as white-balance presets for use with DNG files. Only Aperture gives me great colors, Photoshop CS5 ACR and others look crummy to me.Ĥ.) In Aperture, I set Saturation to 1.2 most of the time, except with people, where I set Saturation to 1.0 and Vibrancy to 0.2.ĥ.) I also let Aperture auto-enhance the levels with Auto-luminance, and edge sharpen with 0.5 Intensity, 0.22 Edges, and 0.69 falloff.Įven if all I need are JPGs, running the DNGs through Aperture and Exporting Versions as JPGs gives results night-and-day different from the crummy JPGs created inside the M9. Every raw software reads files differently. Yes, in DNG we can reset this when processed, and 6,000 K gets me where I need to be most of the time.ģ.) Process the DNG files in Apple Aperture 3. Sometimes I'll set a higher Kelvin number in shade, or set Auto White Balance under mixed artificial lighting. See Frame Buffer and On-Board Computer.Ģ.) I set White Balance to 6,000 K for most conditions. I'm serious: my M9 works slowly and will lose and corrupt files when shot as JPG or JPG + DNG. The processing required to create JPGs bungs-up the M9 it works much faster and more reliably shooting DNG-only. The M9 works slowly and poorly when you ask it to save JPGs alone or with DNGs. There is only one way I've discovered to get good color from an M9, and it gives great color when done this way:ġ.) Shoot DNG only. Shot as JPGs, or as DNGs opened with most software, the LEICA M9's color rendition is horrible. Buy from Adorama, Amazon, Ritz, B&H, Calumet and J&R.
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